Just Back: Southern Madagascar

Kiki Venencie and Kate Koziol at Satrana Lodge

Madagascar may be known for its beaches, but visiting the spiny forest, high plateaus and cloud forests puts travelers in touch with sights not seen anywhere else in the world.  Madagascar is a haven for the nature-lover, an incredible biodiversity trip for any well-seasoned traveler and well suited for couples or small groups.  Activities can be adjusted to meet any fitness levels to range from city tours to strenuous hiking.  The country has just expanded into the luxury market and my July trip, planned by Thecla Vis of Atlas Travel International, in conjunction with Madagascar tour specialist Cortez USA, brought me close to the flora and fauna, but still comfortably resting poolside by afternoon. 

Traveling from the capital of Antananarivo in Central Madagascar on Air Madagascar to Tulear on the southwest coast of the island got me into the countryside quickly.  Both airports are easy to navigate but leave plenty of time to allow for congestion clearing security and checking in.  Atlas Travel International had arranged for a driver to pick me up upon landing in Tulear and escort me on my week-long drive back to the capital stopping in Isalo National Park, Ranomofana National Park and overnight the market town of Antsirabe.

My guide, 10-year Cortez veteran Ramiandrisoa Parson, was both charming and knowledgeable and has accompanied professional photographers on prior trips, so he was not only well versed in the sites, he pointed out interesting impromptu photos to take.  With stops at markets and villages along the way, we explored everyday Malagasy life and local craftsmen including woodcarvers, silk weavers, paper production and horn carvers.  Parson was an excellent interpreter, speaking Malagasy, French and English, and he arranged local guides at each stop. 
 

Centrest Restaurant

I spent my first night in Antananarivo at Hotel La Varangue, a sweet bit of French countryside tucked along a walled cobbled street.   Try the Zebu filet with Fois Gras and the flaming Chocolate Explosion at the top-rated onsite Restaurant la Varangue.  The eclectic lobby bar and surroundings feature an extensive collection or musical instruments, clocks, vintage microscopes and vast assortment of other paraphernalia, plus a large rhum bar, with dozens of locally-produced spirits in flavors such as vanilla, cinnamon and pineapple.

Tucked into the rocky outcroppings at the outskirts of Isalo National Park, Satrana Lodge blends seamlessly into the hillside.  This luxury tented camp opened in 2008 and is a charming oasis in this dry tropical forest.  These spacious tents included sizable front decks providing wonderful sunrise and sunset views.   The three course lunches and dinners will leave any traveler well satiated and the dining room sits just off the pool and patio with sweeping views of nearby mountains.  Satrana Lodge is run by Thierry Venencie, a highly capable general manager and his attentive and friendly staff.  My room 114, was a short stroll down a landscaped walkway and was very spacious with dark wood furniture including king sized bed, desk and armoire, and the poured cement floor bathroom had double sinks, a zero entry shower and an enclosed outdoor shower as well.  The aluminum accents throughout the room added a cool touch to a well appointed room.

The nearby terrain was dotted with Baobab trees, palm trees, and make for wonderful canyon waterfall hikes and bluff top treks.  The required guides for these trips can be arranged though the local park office in Ranohira and my guide Juelle, a 25 year veteran of the terrain, was well versed in botany, tribal history and geology.  The hike to the Piscine Naturelle, a lovely oasis in the sandstone mountains, and the troops of lemurs in the near the entrance of Canyon Namaza were the highlights of the area.  Stop in the nearby town of Ilakaka, known for its newly-discovered sapphires.  The local river juxtaposes villagers panning for sapphires and those doing laundry.
 

Couleur Cafe

The drive to Ranomafana included a stop at Ambalavao to walk the regional zebu market amongst hundreds of buyers, sellers and at least 1,000 of the surprisingly docile zebu.  The Centrest Hotel in Ranomafana National Park, is a perfectly suitable hotel, although the luxury spot in the area is the Setam Lodge just up the road.  The Centrest dining room had open air seating overlooking the cloud forest and indoor seating.  Hikes into the park can be strenuous, covering rain-slicked steep inclines, but a few senior citizens made the trek and I think it was well worth it.  My guide Tao had vast knowledge of the area and his lemur-spotting partner guided us to the best spots, including seeing the nearly extinct Golden Bamboo Lemur.  I had a chance to stop by Centre ValBio, a research facility run by noted scientist Dr. Patricia Wright. 

On our way to Antsirabe, we stopped in the woodcarver village of Ambositra.  The hand carved work and wood inlay is incredible and ongoing demonstrations of their expertise are available.  The Couleur Café in Antsirabe has five cottages set in a walled garden and was a pleasant way to wrap up a trip to Madagascar.  Like many properties, there is no central heat, but the fireplace warms the room nicely.  The family style dining room with one large table for guests to share makes for interesting dinner conversation.  The city’s countless rickshaws, known locally as pousse-pousse, transport locals and tourists and make navigating this bustling town easier than driving.  The extensive Saturday markets had food stalls and regionally made handicrafts and is worth the trip.
 

Johannesburg Airport's First-Class Cycad Lounge

During our lengthy layover in Johannesburg between our South African Airways flights from Dar es Salaam and New York, SAA gave us a chance to try out the Cycad lounge in the O.R. Tambo International Airport, which is normally reserved for first class customers (SAA uses a two-class system on most of its flights, but recognizes connecting passengers flying first class on codeshare flights), Voyager Lifetime Platinum and Platinum members.

Unlike the business-class Baobab lounge, which is long and very spacious, the smaller Cycad lounge is smaller and much more intimate. Most of the spaces are circular, and the curved walls offer a sense of privacy—it’s hard to see an awful lot of space at once, so there’s no overwhelming sense of being in a huge, cavernous room. Also, as the space is designed for fewer people, the lounge seems much quieter than Baobab, though that could also be due to the walls enclosing more of the space.

The Baobab lounge has cold snack bar with wraps and sandwiches, but Cycad has a full restaurant where guests can have a multi-course meal (or several) throughout the day. While we got work done in the business center (flat-screen computers on a circular table against the wall, with two small meeting rooms off to the side), the staff kept coming by to see if we wanted them to bring us any drinks or snacks. When we did get a pre-flight light meal, the seafood soup and grilled cheese (and ham and tomato) sandwich got high marks. (They were out of the lamb shank, alas, or I’m sure one of us would have tried that.)

In addition to showers (which seem to be much like those in Baobab), the lounge also has “snooze rooms” for those who need a nap before their flight.

If your clients have any kind of layover in Johannesburg, see if you can book them into Cycad. There's nothing wrong with Baobab, of course, but those extra little touches can make a world of difference.

World Travel Market in London: Day Three (Part One--Kenya)

I just came from a lovely chat with Jennifer Opondo, director of marketing for the Kenya Tourist Board (pictured in the middle at right--the pale girl on the left is me, in serious need of makeup, and the woman in the right is Megan Meers, one of our sales directors). When I asked her what agents need to know in order to properly sell Kenya, she paused for a moment before saying that the country offers a wide range of experiences, from the Cradle of Mankind to the wilds of the Maasi Mara to the sophisticated culture of Nairobi.

In the national parks and reserves, she said, there is a wide range of wildlife in a remarkably small range of space, making it easy for visitors to see plenty of animals without having to venture very far. 

Beyond the Masai Mara, she said, visitors in the northern part of Kenya should visit the Great Rift Valley, which beyond being a natural wonder is also home to 30 percent of the world's pink flamingos. (The real ones; not the plastic things you see on lawns.)

Wellness travel has become popular in Kenya, she added, with lots of development in terms of boutique luxury lodges and spas in the wild. Visitors can be, as she calls is, "soft-active," going on walking or horseback safaris to get some low-impact exercise while enjoying the wildlife. For something a bit more energetic, the Lewa Marathon is an annual fundraiser that lets runners race through the wilderness...often with animals running beside them. (Quite appropriately, a Kenyan woman just won the New York City Marathon. If you can run with the big cats, city streets are nothing.) Best of all: Funds raised at the marathon go to support local hospitals and schools. 

Kenya's coast is also worth checking out with what Opondo calls a "mosaic" of cultural influences: Spanish, Portuguese, English and Arabic among them. Notable among the coastal attractions is Lamu Island, reportedly a popular destination for Bill Gates, the late Michael Jackson and other celebs. The island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and no motorized vehicles are allowed. The buildings have classic Swahili architecture, and the elaborately carved wooden doorways are a notable attraction for art fans. (Visitors can take carving classes that can last for weeks or a year, Opondo said.)

A popular resort on the island is Kipungani Explorer, which Opondo says has a 1:1 Guest:Staff ratio. With a capacity of just 20 in 13 luxury tents, guests can easily avoid other visitors and imagine that they have the resort to themselves. Look for more information on Lamu Island in an upcoming issue of Luxury Travel Advisor. 

The View from the Kenya Tourism Board Tent at World Travel Market

For those who want a more urban escape, Opondo talked about the "Nairobi Chic" trend that has come up in the capital city, with plenty of shopping, dining and nightlife to keep visitors entertained. Best of all, the city has a national park within its borders, so visitors can look at wild lions with skyscrapers behind them. For a unique experiences, visitors can combine golfing with a safari, and play a round on Mt. Kenya itself. (The altitude, she added, adds 10 yards to each swing. 

Let's Do Lunch!

On October 29th after our visit to Harambee Center, Micato Safaris and AmericaShare arranged a luncheon at Ole-Sereni Hotel, Nairobi, for Virtuoso's sponsoring children through AmericaShare and our sponsored children. Michael and I sponsor 2 children, Jane and Salim. Because she was sitting for her National exams, which will determine future educational options, Jane was unable to join us. Salim, 13, a smiling and shy teen who loves football (which we call soccer), music and pilau, a spicy Kenyan rice dish, joined us for lunch. Quiet at first, but after taking time to get reacquainted (our last visit was in 2005), Salim relaxed and enjoyed a meal any kid would love-hamburgers, pizza, pasta, and ice cream.

From a list of ideas for suggested gifts sent to us by AmericaShare, we brought Salim some pens, markers, and a t-shirt from the University of Kansas. Trying to find activities that might interest Salim,  Michael rummaged through his backpack and found two electronic gadgets that captivated our Kenyan adolescent, an iPod and our digital camera. So, with Bruce Springsteen's "Born in the USA" blasting in his ears, Salim roamed around the pool snapping photos.

Slipping into our parental role, Michael and I encouraged Salim to study hard, to do well so he could go on to college. My mind drifted back to the same adivce we gave our own kids, Lauren and Josh, members of what Michael has dubbed the LSC, Lucky Sperm Club. Michael and I, our kids, and our grandkids were born into loving economically stable families in the US. We didn't "do" anything to receive this gift, we "lucked" out. Our way of saying "thank you" for this treasured life, which I all too often take for granted is to "pay it forard," to light one candle than to curse the darkness.

Did you know Micato Safaris will pay for an African child's education for each safari they sell? It's called their "One for One Commitment" and it garnered the prestigious World Saver Award for Education Initiatives. What a wonderful opportunity to have fun and do good, go on safari AND educate a child! Won't you join us? http://americashare.org/howtohelp.php

For details about our custom Micato safari to Tanzania in 2012 or any Micato safari, contact Michael@greatgetaway.com.

Safari Njema (Have a good trip in Swahili)

This is Heaven: A Visit to AmericaShare's Harambee Center

"This is Heaven," my husband, Michael, remarked as we toured AmericaShare's Harambe Center, an oasis of hope in Mukuru slum, outside Nairobi. This, our third visit to Mukuru in recent years did not evoke the same gut wrenching emotions of despair as had the first two visits.

In 2004 we first experienced Mukuru, one of Nairobi's blighted areas. I recall in vivid detail the drive, which seemed hours long but lasted only 20 minutes. That November day was sunny after the pervious night's soaking rains, rains that easily turned Mukuru's dirt roads into rivers of mud. A mass of humanity lined the the route, standing in front of store fronts that provided a facade for the dense rows of shacks sardined behind them. Some people had vacant eyes but not the children---their eyes sparkled, smiles radiated, and hands waving while chanting, "How are you (with the emphasis on 'you')   at the passing caravan of Micato coaches. Silently I wondered how soon the reality of slum life would obliterate the smiles, the hope.

Then we arrived at what is now called Harambee Center, a slice of Heaven, a patch of land dotted with green space that is focused on helping women and children, offering solutions and providing for their physical health, education, vocational training, and nutrition. I've blogged about AmericaShare in the past and rather than repeat myself, I suggest you visit www.americashare.org to learn more about this incredible organization. One important note: All administrative costs of AmericaShare are absorbed by Micato Safaris and its founders, the Pinto family. That means that 100 percent of donations reach the women and children who sorely need them.

Fast forward to this visit, October 29, 2010: Unlike previous visits that sucked the air out of me, I breathed in the progress I saw, the measurable growth and success. A few years ago, a guest of Micato Safaris, impressed with AmericaShare's project, donated funds to build Harambee Center. On this visit we found so many signs of hope: a learning center housed a bank of computers to assist in strengthening children's basic education; a new sports court was being built and would offer basketball, tennis, and a games area; an area women used to create handicrafts that they sold to support themselves; increased classrooms for the preschool; and a micro-factory which constructed reusable sanitary pads. When girls are menstruating, they often miss school because they have no means to stop the flow of blood. In an effort to earn enough money to buy disposable sanitary napkins, some girls offer their bodies for sex, risking their lives and their health. AmericaShare provides a safer option. (See photo below). Girls now stay in school and have less chance to contract AIDS.

While Mukuru's populations has swelled to 750,000 from the 500,000 of 2004, AmericaShare, too, has grown. The atmosphere of hope, of a solution to the terrible cycle of poverty is palpable. So, Michael was indeed accurate when he stated, "This is what Heaven is like."

Footnote: Virtuoso donated $15,000 to AmericaShare and Matthew, Jessica, Clay, and Benjie Upchurch matched that donation with another $15,000...a reminder of the how travel helps heal our world.

Before We Say Farewell...

No catchy title to the blog post for today. My pals, Creative and Clever, took a sabbatical!

Last night we ate dinner in the courtyard of Mt. Kenya Safari Club. As I was dressing for dinner (as in clean clothes in shades of gray, khaki, olive-general camouflage colors), I realized my style might be described as "hip bag lady." I've seen some homeless women who wear layer upon layer of clothes, both I would venture for warmth and ease of transport. I knew we'd be dining "al fresco" and the temperature would be a bit chilly, breezy, brisk, cool, fresh, nippy---okay, forget the flowery words, I'll go with cold. (That's my word choice and I'm sticking with it.). First, I put on my long johns, followed by 3 tee shirts, pants, 2 pair of socks, shoes, fleece jacket and a wool leopard print scarf (the scarf put the "hip" description in front of bag lady). Michael taught me many adventures ago that it is better to dress in layers than to sit and shiver. Last night, while it may sound extreme, I was layered "just right." Oh, I forgot to add I wore 3 necklaces and a pair of earrings. I had two reasons for the accessories: 1) If I shed layers, I'd still look stylish; and 2) I'd win at Strip Poker, should the opportunity arise!

Today Fairmont offered a plethora of activities (I just love trendy words like plethora, myriad, bespoke, and replete---and, yes, I'm guilty of using them). Michael and I signed up for a game drive to a new safari camp, Solio, home of a rhino conservation area. As we drove to the camp and drove and drove and drove, a comment Jane Pinto, Micato's founder, once made about a road in Tanzania came to mind, "I know we're heading to Heaven because I've just been on the road to Hell." The ride was long,  uninteresting and very bumpy. The driver was unusually quiet and when he spoke, none of the 5 passengers (Michael, me, Muriel Wilson, Virtuoso's Director of Meetings and Events, Mike McCown, Virtuoso's VP of Finance and Accounting, and the intrepid, wise and helpful Phoebe Weinberg, Greatways Travel) could decipher his dialect. Maybe if he had shared more, we could have gotten used to his speech pattern.

Stay with me because I am about to digress: Why has Micato Safaris been voted #1 Tour Operator in Travel + Leisure's Readers poll 7 times? The reasons are so many I couldn't possibly list them all here and still be ready for dinner 3 hours from now! I'll focus  now on just a few items that sets Micato apart from the wannabe's:
    •    Infrastructure (I should add that to my list of trendy words): Micato is a well-organized team that has thought ahead of every contingency, every guest question, every vehicle maintenance issue (which is rare for Micato), how to bypass the tangled web of passengers arrive at Jomo Kenyatta International ?Airport, the clever and practical gifts the Pinto family gives clients, the activity bags for the small plane rides, AND the highly trained, educated and knowledgeable Safari Directors. Had we had a Safari Director with us, we'd have learned the difference between black rhino and white rhino (go ahead, Google it!), we'd learn about the customs of the local people, their history, their culture, and even hear a few corny jokes (like saying the Impala in Kenya is not a Chevrolet). Even though I've experienced safaris with and without a Safari Director, using Micato and their Safari Directors makes for a totally seamless experience.
    •    Family: Micato is a family-owned business founded by Jane and Felix Pinto, Nairobi, Kenya and Dennis, Joy and Anna Pinto in the US. I believe I can safely claim that every Micato guest who has met and dined with the Pintos, whether at Lavington, Jane and Felix's home, or at some delicious restuarant in the increasingly cosmopolitan areas in Nairobi, may have arrived as guests but leave feeling like a member of the family. And the staff at Micato becomes family, too. Many of the staff have been a part of the Micato team/family for double digit years.
    •    Philanthropy and Environmental Contributions: Micato Safaris and the Pinto family created AmericaShare, www.americashare.org , "a non profit organization dedicated to helping populations in Nairobi, Kenya who have been affected by the HIV/AIDS epidemic. Through our education, community outreach and economic empowerment programmes, we seek to provide disadvantaged children and women with access to basic services in order to facilitate sustainable change." (a quote from their website). In fact, tomorrow Michael and I will go to see our two "adopted" children, Jane and Salim, who we haven't seen for 5 years. We're very excited and plan to video them sharing a message, which I will post if I don't jiggle toe Fip Video too much! They've met our children, Lauren and Josh. Now we have photos of our adorable grandsons, Tristan and Jacob, to share with our Kenyan kids! In September, 2010, Micato won 2 prestigious Conde Nast Traveler World Saver Awards.

Now back to today's activities: we finally reached Solio, a new camp which opened in August, 2010, after driving that long, bumpy road and a game drive during which we saw impalas, rhinos (both black and white---you did Google it, didn't you?), zebra, jackals, buffalo, and giraffes (okay, another pop quiz: we saw reticulated giraffes. Question: how many species of giraffes are in Kenya and what are they? Come on, I just gave you one of the answers...Google it and come back to the blog, please). We saw some important guests of Solio, 2 darling, orphaned baby warthogs, who followed one of the staff like a well trained puppy. The accommodations at this 6 suite camp are stunning and, hopefully, they will add plunge pools or a community pool for their guests. The vehicles and drivers for this activity were from a company contracted by Fairmont at the last minute, due to some unforseen changes, and is not a company Fairmont usually uses---which is a good thing because there were several glitches in the journey and I want to be sure you know this was NOT a Fairmont created activity.

Tonight is our Farewell Dinner (inside, thank God, so I'll dispense with the layers and stick with the jewelry including the necklace created by a renowned bead artist who happens to be my sister, NanC Meinhardt, www.nancmeinhardt.com ), and early tomorrow we fly to Nairobi to go to Harambee House, to our "kids" Jane and Salim. I know tomorrow I will be very emotionally charged and won't be able to blog immediately. Plus, tomorrow night we fly back home, stopping long enough to switch suitcases and fly to Kauai to see our daughter, Lauren, and Jon and our oh so huggable grandson, Jacob, and to also attend Classic Vacations Partners Event. Because we'll be experiencing a 12 hour time change between Kenya and Kauai, I can't promise when I will blog again---soon, though, very soon! If you're reading this on www.luxuryta.com, you may continue to read my musings at www.greatgetaways.travel/blog or on www.travelingking.net. (that is, unless luxuryta.com wants me to stick around??? ).

 I can honestly tell you Michael and I've enjoyed the cameraderie, the activities, the experiences,  and the orchestration of the Virtuoso Chairman's Safari. A world of thanks to Micato Safaris, Fairmont Hotels, Magical Kenya, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, and Crystal Cruises!

In Swahili,  Asante sana (thank you very much), safari njema (have a good trip), and fika salama (arrive safely)!
 

And for the Best Shower, the Winner is...

If there were a CNT or T+L rating guide, I'm put Fairmont Mt. Kenya Safari Club as #1 for best hotel shower in Kenya. Folks, we're talking from the ceiling and with great water pressure and lots of hot water (Excuse me, did I just say, "Folks?" Folks reminds me of an infomercial, "Folks, if you call in the next 5 minutes...).

If you've been following along on my blog about the 2010 Virtuoso Chairman's Club Safari (you ARE taking copious notes, aren't you?), you'll know we've been at Fairmont Mara Safari Club for 3 nights. Yesterday was our last full day and I've already chronicled about most of the day. I will add a small footnote and then on to "who, what and where" today:

Yesterday afternoon we were determined to go on the afternoon game drive to hopefully spot the leopard (no pun intended) others saw the other day. During the morning drive, we pressured our guide to find the gorgeous cat who shies away from the bright daylight. Unfortunately, we didn't find him/her so we knew we just had to see him on this drive because it would be the last game drive on the Mara for this safari.  Although it rained all afternoon, we veteran safari-goers (help me out with a better word choice, please! Leave your suggestions in the comments) didn't let rain stop us. Two safari vehicles loaded with us die-hards took off for our last drive in the Maasai Mara. With us on this drive were Amy and Stefan Bisciglia, Specialty Cruise & Villas, Kristi Jones, President of Virtuoso, and Albert Herrera, Vice President, Virtuoso Hotels, Destinations, and Tours. By the way, our driver/guide, Sammy, was superb at navigating through the mud---thank you, Sammy! We saw a herd of topi all facing the same way---their rears facing the direction the wind was blowing. Pretty clever way to avoid getting rained at! While those of us in the second row and rear of the vehicle were surrounded by somewhat clear plastic, Albert and Sammy braved the rain with no protection. Is this the same Albert Herrera I know, the impeccably dressed, dapper Virtuoso fashion plate? I think he was taking this dressing down and "roughing it" concept a bit too far! Of course, the designer pashmina wrapped around his neck did add a touch of class to the rain soaked safari shirt he wore. Suddenly lightning struck brilliant on the horizon and immediately we heard thunder. I know there's some formula for counting the time between lightning and thunder to determine the proximity of the strike and Kristi quickly computed that we best head back to Fairmont Mara Safari Club. Alas, no leopard on this safari but I have great leopard shots on Picasaweb.google.com/travelingking1 of some of our past safaris.

On to today: after a delicious breakfast, we headed to the landing strip and boarded our flight for the Fairmont Mt. Kenya Safari Club. 45 minutes later found us off the plane near Mt. Kenya and on a coach en route to the iconic hotel and then, "Jambo, welcome Virtuoso to the Fairmont Mt. Kenya Safari Club." African tribal-dressed men drummed an escort as we drove through the gates. Michael and I were eager to see the face lift performed by Fairmont Hotels Int'l. We had stayed here twice before, and on our last visit in 2004 prior to Fairmont taking over, we panned the property. Grounds were not well kept, the decor was "tired" (don't you love it when I talk "Realtor-ese?"), and the staff surly. Only because I was familiar with the footprint of the property did I believe I was actually at the same place I remember from 2004, the one with the toilet seat that fell off: the grounds are immaculate and flowers are plentiful; the chef has a true chef's garden, replete with everything necessary to prepare gourmet cuisine; the staff is gracious, attentive and friendly; and our suite is just that-sweet!

And that brings me to the title of this post, "And for the best shower, the winner is..." What wonderfully improved accommodations! A true class act! No problems with sliding toilet seats because everything is shiny, new, and functioning. Congratulations, Fairmont, on a job superbly done!

A last comment: Leslie (as in Leslie Dodson, Fairmont Hotels) offered me a snack this noon that looked like dried worms. Silly me----they weren't worms, they were tiny dried fish who still had their charming little bug-like eyes. Being polite, I ate a few. "Oh, they taste like sardines somewhat," I commented. Now for the truth, Leslie---was this your version of trick or treat?
 

You Snooze, You Lose!

Yesterday afternoon I opted to stay at Fairmont Mara Safari Club rather than take the afternoon game drive. My bad! While dreaming about lions and leopards, the rest of the Virtuoso crowd actually saw them---and a herd of elephants, too! Grrrrr! The rainy season seems to have begun a little early. Some background: there are 2 rainy seasons--the long rains are in March and April and the short rains are in November. Apparently, elephants aren't into rain showers and migrate uphill when it's soggy outside. So, although we saw several elephants in November, 2004, we were told that was unusual. Can you believe the elephants and the leopard had the gall to wander around when I wasn't there???

Last night it rained but that didn't stop the Virtuoso bunch from having a good time. David Hanson, Terrie Hanson and Keith Waldon, of Virtuoso fame, decided to play a trick on Alex Sharpe, Regent Cruises. They planted a rubber snake in his tent. There was one teeny, weeny problem---they put the snake in the tent of Sharon and Michael Fake, Travel Experts! When Terrie shared the prank with David Lowy, Renshaw Travel, he told Terrie she was a polysyllabic word that meant a person who enjoys teasing others (can't remember the word-it's from a German word, I think). That made her pause while Elaine looked up the definition on her phone.

This morning we went for a morning game drive, hoping to see the leopard and elephants we missed yesterday. Alas, it was not to be; however, we saw a mama lion and her cubs, some mongooses (Google claims "mongooses" is more common than "mongeese"), an elephant, lots of antelope (again, Google opts for no "s"), ostrich, giraffes, zebras, dik dik, gazelles, wildebeests, impalas, hyena and a stork. It's amazing how quickly we become jaded because I and several others were heard to whine, "Oh, another zebra" or "Just some more impalas" as if we see them every day of our lives!

This morning's treat was a gourmet buffet breakfast in the bush. Only Fairmont and Micato would know that we Virtuoso members are inveterate shoppers---they invited some Maasai to join us and set up a gift boutique on a traditional red and blue plaid Maasai blanket! We spent time visiting with Sean Walwyn, Fairmont Hotels. He's lived in some amazing places. He was born in Jamaica, moved to Barbados, schooled in the UK, worked in Kuwait, Istanbul, Japan, and Canada (to name just a few of his posts).

This afternoon is another game drive and we have one more chance to spot some wildlife tomorrow before we wing our way to Fairmont Mt. Kenya Safari Club for two nights. Chris Cahill, COO of Fairmont Raffles Hotels International will join us there along with Sean, Serge and Leslie, who have escorted us so far.

Okay, enough jabber! It's time for lunch and, God knows, I haven't eaten in at least 3 hours!

Mara Means Spotted…Who Knew? Virtuoso's Chairman's Safari in the Maasai Mara

Yesterday at 0 dark hundred we dutifully placed our Micato rolling dufflebags outside our door at Fairmont The Norfolk. They left before we did for our safari in the Maasai Mara. At 7:45 AM we arrived at Wilson Airport and boarded our planes to join our luggage which was waiting patiently in our tent at Fairmont Mara Safari Club. Landing in the Mara, a throng of Masai warriors greeted us in song, dance and jumping. They love to jump and every time I've watched the Maasai celebrate life in song, I'm amazed how high they reach into the air after a strong leap from the dusty ground.  We immediately began our first game drive with our driver/guide, Jeremiah. Joining our safari vehicle were David & Terrie Hansen and Elaine Srnka, all wizards of Virtuoso. Jeremiah has worked for Mara Safari Club for 12 years, who moved from a traditional Maasai village to a more contemporary Maasai community. The traditional village is a series of dung, mud, and grass huts set in a circle. The Maasai are an inspiring culture (although I warned Michael not to get any ideas about the polygamous part, and we both politely declined the tradtional Maasai drink, a mixture of cow's blood and milk). They are herdsmen, pasturalists, and consider the Serengeti and it's northern area, called the Mara, their home.

I love new fun facts and on this safari I learned that "mara" means "spotted, an apt description for the circles of trees, scrub, savannah and cloud shadows that mark the area." (reference:
http://dictionary.sensagent.com/masai+mara/en-en/)

So far we've seen lions, buffalo, hippos, giraffes, hyenas, jackals, a host of different species of antelope (eland, water buck, impala, Gran'ts gazelle, Thompson gazelle, warthogs, wildebeests, zebras, giraffes, and only 1 elephant--we've seen evidence of elephants, as in droppings they've left,  but only 1 young male so far. We watched a hyena, known as a scavenger, feast on a recent lion kill of a wildebeest while keeping the vultures, jackals and eagles at bay. The wildebeests that are here probably won't continue the annual migration of zebras and wildebeests from Kenya to Tanzania because it is mostly completed by now. Jeremiah joked that either they didn't have their passports to go to Tanzania or the lions needed them to stay behind to become a meal for the hungry big cats.

Last night's dinner was held in the Boma; formerly styled as a livestock enclosure or a fort, today they are found at most safari lodges and are a community area. After a buffet dinner, some Maasai teens serenaded us. This morning, after our game drive, some of us toured a traditional Maasai village while others went on a guided walking safari. This afternoon will be another safari ending in a sundowner, an event where the safari vehicles rendezvous to watching a gorgeous Kenyan sunset while sipping their favorite beverage and enjoying some delicious appetizers.

I Could Have Danced All Night!

Be grateful for small things, as in you can't hear me sing! Actually, I couldn't have danced all night; however, I enjoyed watching the native African dancers at the Chairman's Safari dinner at Lavington, home of Felix and Jane Pinto, founders of Micato Safaris. What a memorable evening!

To avoid being stuck in a traffic jam, we were escorted by Nairobi police to Lavington. On arrival we were greeted by a host of people dressed in various traditional African costumes. As Michael and I entered the Pinto's home, we reflected on our previous visits there: the family photos of Dennis and Anna as children; photos of Jane winning the ping pong championship in Kenya; the gorgeous statues; the urns everywhere one looked filled with dozens and dozens of roses; and the meals we've shared with the Pinto family on previous safaris to Kenya.

I'm at a loss for words (don't be shocked!) to describe this treasured evening. After cocktails and passed hors d'oeuvres we paraded through a hallway lined with the famous African Children's Choir singing a song of welcome and we stepped into a tent filled with crisp white linen covered tables, chairs covered in various animal prints, and centerpieces of intertwined animal horns filled with birds of paradise and other flowers. Food was plentiful and oh so delicious. Some of the many offerings were: Roasted Kenya vegetables, Medallions of beef tenderloin, Grilled Rock Lobster, and Giant Prawns. If that wasn't enough we each received a dessert of assorted sweets such as flourless chocolate cake, vanilla bean creme brulee, and meringue with fruit coulis.  During the meal we enjoyed a multimedia event of traditional African dancers, modeling of African fashion, and music. The finale of the evening was an incredible performance by the African Children's Choir, who also performed at Virtuoso's Travel Mart in Vegas last August. They will be returning to the US to do a series of concerts to raise money to help the children of East Africa. If I find a schedule of their venues, I'll post it here. Trust me, attending one of their performances will envelop your soul with delight and hope.

Tomorrow we're off very early for the Fairmont Mara Safari Club for 3 days. We look forward to returning there and enjoying sitting on the deck overlooking the Mara River and its perennial crowd of hippos!

As soon as I can, I will upload photos from this evening's extravaganza. Now the angels of Africa are inviting me to go to sleep! May angels visit you in your dreams!