Just Back: Southern Madagascar

Kiki Venencie and Kate Koziol at Satrana Lodge

Madagascar may be known for its beaches, but visiting the spiny forest, high plateaus and cloud forests puts travelers in touch with sights not seen anywhere else in the world.  Madagascar is a haven for the nature-lover, an incredible biodiversity trip for any well-seasoned traveler and well suited for couples or small groups.  Activities can be adjusted to meet any fitness levels to range from city tours to strenuous hiking.  The country has just expanded into the luxury market and my July trip, planned by Thecla Vis of Atlas Travel International, in conjunction with Madagascar tour specialist Cortez USA, brought me close to the flora and fauna, but still comfortably resting poolside by afternoon. 

Traveling from the capital of Antananarivo in Central Madagascar on Air Madagascar to Tulear on the southwest coast of the island got me into the countryside quickly.  Both airports are easy to navigate but leave plenty of time to allow for congestion clearing security and checking in.  Atlas Travel International had arranged for a driver to pick me up upon landing in Tulear and escort me on my week-long drive back to the capital stopping in Isalo National Park, Ranomofana National Park and overnight the market town of Antsirabe.

My guide, 10-year Cortez veteran Ramiandrisoa Parson, was both charming and knowledgeable and has accompanied professional photographers on prior trips, so he was not only well versed in the sites, he pointed out interesting impromptu photos to take.  With stops at markets and villages along the way, we explored everyday Malagasy life and local craftsmen including woodcarvers, silk weavers, paper production and horn carvers.  Parson was an excellent interpreter, speaking Malagasy, French and English, and he arranged local guides at each stop. 
 

Centrest Restaurant

I spent my first night in Antananarivo at Hotel La Varangue, a sweet bit of French countryside tucked along a walled cobbled street.   Try the Zebu filet with Fois Gras and the flaming Chocolate Explosion at the top-rated onsite Restaurant la Varangue.  The eclectic lobby bar and surroundings feature an extensive collection or musical instruments, clocks, vintage microscopes and vast assortment of other paraphernalia, plus a large rhum bar, with dozens of locally-produced spirits in flavors such as vanilla, cinnamon and pineapple.

Tucked into the rocky outcroppings at the outskirts of Isalo National Park, Satrana Lodge blends seamlessly into the hillside.  This luxury tented camp opened in 2008 and is a charming oasis in this dry tropical forest.  These spacious tents included sizable front decks providing wonderful sunrise and sunset views.   The three course lunches and dinners will leave any traveler well satiated and the dining room sits just off the pool and patio with sweeping views of nearby mountains.  Satrana Lodge is run by Thierry Venencie, a highly capable general manager and his attentive and friendly staff.  My room 114, was a short stroll down a landscaped walkway and was very spacious with dark wood furniture including king sized bed, desk and armoire, and the poured cement floor bathroom had double sinks, a zero entry shower and an enclosed outdoor shower as well.  The aluminum accents throughout the room added a cool touch to a well appointed room.

The nearby terrain was dotted with Baobab trees, palm trees, and make for wonderful canyon waterfall hikes and bluff top treks.  The required guides for these trips can be arranged though the local park office in Ranohira and my guide Juelle, a 25 year veteran of the terrain, was well versed in botany, tribal history and geology.  The hike to the Piscine Naturelle, a lovely oasis in the sandstone mountains, and the troops of lemurs in the near the entrance of Canyon Namaza were the highlights of the area.  Stop in the nearby town of Ilakaka, known for its newly-discovered sapphires.  The local river juxtaposes villagers panning for sapphires and those doing laundry.
 

Couleur Cafe

The drive to Ranomafana included a stop at Ambalavao to walk the regional zebu market amongst hundreds of buyers, sellers and at least 1,000 of the surprisingly docile zebu.  The Centrest Hotel in Ranomafana National Park, is a perfectly suitable hotel, although the luxury spot in the area is the Setam Lodge just up the road.  The Centrest dining room had open air seating overlooking the cloud forest and indoor seating.  Hikes into the park can be strenuous, covering rain-slicked steep inclines, but a few senior citizens made the trek and I think it was well worth it.  My guide Tao had vast knowledge of the area and his lemur-spotting partner guided us to the best spots, including seeing the nearly extinct Golden Bamboo Lemur.  I had a chance to stop by Centre ValBio, a research facility run by noted scientist Dr. Patricia Wright. 

On our way to Antsirabe, we stopped in the woodcarver village of Ambositra.  The hand carved work and wood inlay is incredible and ongoing demonstrations of their expertise are available.  The Couleur Café in Antsirabe has five cottages set in a walled garden and was a pleasant way to wrap up a trip to Madagascar.  Like many properties, there is no central heat, but the fireplace warms the room nicely.  The family style dining room with one large table for guests to share makes for interesting dinner conversation.  The city’s countless rickshaws, known locally as pousse-pousse, transport locals and tourists and make navigating this bustling town easier than driving.  The extensive Saturday markets had food stalls and regionally made handicrafts and is worth the trip.
 

World Travel Market in London: Day Three (Part One--Kenya)

I just came from a lovely chat with Jennifer Opondo, director of marketing for the Kenya Tourist Board (pictured in the middle at right--the pale girl on the left is me, in serious need of makeup, and the woman in the right is Megan Meers, one of our sales directors). When I asked her what agents need to know in order to properly sell Kenya, she paused for a moment before saying that the country offers a wide range of experiences, from the Cradle of Mankind to the wilds of the Maasi Mara to the sophisticated culture of Nairobi.

In the national parks and reserves, she said, there is a wide range of wildlife in a remarkably small range of space, making it easy for visitors to see plenty of animals without having to venture very far. 

Beyond the Masai Mara, she said, visitors in the northern part of Kenya should visit the Great Rift Valley, which beyond being a natural wonder is also home to 30 percent of the world's pink flamingos. (The real ones; not the plastic things you see on lawns.)

Wellness travel has become popular in Kenya, she added, with lots of development in terms of boutique luxury lodges and spas in the wild. Visitors can be, as she calls is, "soft-active," going on walking or horseback safaris to get some low-impact exercise while enjoying the wildlife. For something a bit more energetic, the Lewa Marathon is an annual fundraiser that lets runners race through the wilderness...often with animals running beside them. (Quite appropriately, a Kenyan woman just won the New York City Marathon. If you can run with the big cats, city streets are nothing.) Best of all: Funds raised at the marathon go to support local hospitals and schools. 

Kenya's coast is also worth checking out with what Opondo calls a "mosaic" of cultural influences: Spanish, Portuguese, English and Arabic among them. Notable among the coastal attractions is Lamu Island, reportedly a popular destination for Bill Gates, the late Michael Jackson and other celebs. The island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and no motorized vehicles are allowed. The buildings have classic Swahili architecture, and the elaborately carved wooden doorways are a notable attraction for art fans. (Visitors can take carving classes that can last for weeks or a year, Opondo said.)

A popular resort on the island is Kipungani Explorer, which Opondo says has a 1:1 Guest:Staff ratio. With a capacity of just 20 in 13 luxury tents, guests can easily avoid other visitors and imagine that they have the resort to themselves. Look for more information on Lamu Island in an upcoming issue of Luxury Travel Advisor. 

The View from the Kenya Tourism Board Tent at World Travel Market

For those who want a more urban escape, Opondo talked about the "Nairobi Chic" trend that has come up in the capital city, with plenty of shopping, dining and nightlife to keep visitors entertained. Best of all, the city has a national park within its borders, so visitors can look at wild lions with skyscrapers behind them. For a unique experiences, visitors can combine golfing with a safari, and play a round on Mt. Kenya itself. (The altitude, she added, adds 10 yards to each swing.