10 of the Best Alternative City Breaks in Europe

Magical Malta … the St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral and Valletta waterfront. Photograph: John Kellerman/Alam

by Will Coldwell, The Guardian, March 28, 2016

Valletta

Why go? The island of Malta itself is a sight to behold but within the walled city of its capital, Valletta, built by the Knights of St John in the 16th century, there is plenty more. Malta’s oldest fort, Fort St Angelo, and the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum – an incredible burial complex cut into rock – are some of the unmissable sights, but the city isn’t without contemporary touches, such as Renzo Piano’s city gate, completed two years ago; and in 2018 Valletta will celebrate the title of City of Culture. Along the narrow, bustling, Strait Street you’ll find bars and live music, elsewhere restaurants, including the unpretentious Da’ Pippo Trattoria (+356 2124 8029), serve delicious Italian cooking, while chic bistro Guze – in a 16th-century building – specialises in local cooking, with rabbit and pork dishes, alongside staples such as pasta and risotto.

Where to stay A real treat is the boutique Valletta Suites: three luxury boltholes in converted townhouses. Each has stunning, opulent decor throughout – freestanding bathtubs, vintage furniture, gilded mirrors and balconies – and is exactly the kind of place you’ll want to stay if you fancy getting lost in your own secret adventure.

Suites from €124, minimum stay 3 nights, vallettasuites.com

Wrocław

Old Market Square in the Old Town in Wroclaw

Old Market Square in the Old Town. Wrocław. Photograph: Alamy

Why go? It may seem tricky to pronounce (some at Guardian Travel are still struggling) but don’t let that stop you discovering this passionate Polish city with a radical history: this spans from venues such as the Song of the Goat Theatre to post-punk commune Centrum Reanimacji Kultury. For more in this vein, take a look at our alternative guide to the city. This year Wrocław is Europe’s capital of culture, with a programme ranging from specially curated Film Operas to a major summer concert with Pink Floyd’s David Gilmour. While the contemporary side of the city – such as art and party space Neon Side Gallery – are a worthy distraction, don’t let that stop you exploring the city’s past; the old town, full of bridges and parks, is a beautiful place to explore, as is the village-like Cathedral Island, dotted with gothic architecture.

Where to stay Design hostel MoHo has two branches in the city. The downtown MoHo S is inside an elegantly converted century-old house just outside the Old Town, with small dorm rooms. MoHo M, in the Nadodrze district, has five private rooms.
• Dorms from €33 a night, apartments from €44 a night, modernhostel.pl

Marseille

A bistro in the Quartier du Panier, Marseille

A bistro in the Quartier du Panier. Photograph: Rachel Davies/Alamy

Why go? Since Eurostar launched direct trains from London last May, this chic city in southern France is just 6.5 hours away. In the oldest area, Quartier du Panier, you’ll find independent cafes and shops – such as classic soap shop La Grande Savonnerie – and contemporary galleries along rue Sainte and rue Grignan. As well as beautiful historical sights, such as the huge neo-Byzantine church Nôtre-Dame de la Garde, you’ll find a younger, edgier Marseille by exploring places like art and social space Friche La Belle de Mai, which has a rooftop bar and open-air cinema throughout the summer. For more tips, take a look at our recent city guide.

Where to stay Hard to fault, the sexy French boutique hotel group Mama Shelter opened a property in Marseille in 2012, bringing urban chic to the Mediterranean coast. The Marseille hotel offers a range of high design, affordably priced rooms, with a restaurant and cocktail bar that make the hotel a destination in itself.
• Doubles from €79, mamashelter.com

Dubrovnik

Diners on an Old Town street in Dubrovnik

Diners on an Old Town street. Photograph: Alamy

Why go? A picturesque city – and the main shooting location for King’s Landing in HBO’s Game Of Thrones – Dubrovnik’s terracotta rooftops tumble down to the blue Adriatic. Among them there’s lots to enjoy, from drinking fresh pilsner in the bars of the old town to a visit to an ancient (still working) apothecary at the Dubrovnik monastery. For history, it’s also worth visiting the Homeland War Museum, which you can combine with a cable car ride to the top of Mount Srdj Also, the Museum of Modern Art is excellent. Culinary indulgences can be found at acclaimed restaurants such as 360°, while beach-side bar and club Banje is among the swankiest of the city’s cocktail hangouts.

Where to stay Dubrovnik isn’t short of accommodation choices but having your own apartment to go back to as an escape from the tourist bustle of the old town is a good choice.
• Butterfly Services has a range of boutique apartments and villas, some from €50 a night, dubrovnikchicrentals.com

Sarajevo

Aerial daytime city view of Sarajevo skyline.

Why go? This year marks the 20th anniversary of the signing of the Dayton peace agreement, which ended four years of war and the devastating siege of Sarajevo. Though its history – including as the flashpoint for the first world war – remains an important part of its present, the Bosnian city, which often draws comparisons with Istanbul, is a beautiful and diverse place to visit, with cobbled streets to explore and excellent cafes serving traditional, slow-brewed coffee and delicious burek (stuffed pastries). To get a grasp on the city under siege, visitors should investigate the Tunnel of Hope – a museum on the site of the city’s wartime supply line – and also visit memorial museum Galerija 11/07/95, which attempts to explain the Srebrenica tragedy. For the city’s creative side, start at the ambitious Ars Aevi Museum of Contemporary Art, before checking out some of its smaller galleries, such as Duplex100m2, which focuses on the country’s emerging artists. The Pivnica HS brewery, which also has a restaurant, is a good place to sample local award-winning beer.

Where to stay Colors Inn (doubles from €128) is among the most popular hotels, with modern rooms, and balconies overlooking the city; but for a cheaper, more homely stay, try the Halvat Guesthouse, a cosy B&B in the old town (doubles €68, halvat.com.ba).

Girona

The steps of Sant Martí Sacosta, Girona, Spain

The steps of Sant Martí Sacosta. Photograph: Peter van Evert/Alamy

Why go? An hour’s drive from the beautiful coastline of Costa Brava, should you wish to combine a trip with some beach time, Girona offers visitors a serving of Catalan culture without the swarms of tourists that descend on Barcelona during peak season. Pro-cyclists have long used the city as a training base, Dan Craven recently recommended cycle cafe La Fabrica as a place to get tips on where to ride. Things to take in, when you’re not checking out the modernist architecture, include the ancient cathedral and the museum dedicated to the city’s Jewish history. Michelin-star restaurant El Celler de Can Roca is an obvious indulgence, while the long-running Sunset Jazz Club is among the places to get dancing.

Where to stay Bells Oficis is a charmingly decorated B&B in the centre of Girona, with black-and-white floor tiles, mismatched furniture and frescos.
• Doubles (with shared bathroom) from €59 B&B, bellsoficis.com

Bologna

Shop selling fruit, vegetables in the old market area, Bologna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

Why go? If ever there was a place to binge on Italian food, then it’s here, in a beautiful university town brimming with classic trattorias – from smarter Ristorante Biagi to cheap local haunts such as Trattoria Anna Maria; both places have staff who have been there for decades. Although dining, along with its aperitivo culture and abundance of religious architecture, is the main draw for most visitors, Bologna also has a younger, radical side: the Libreria modo infoshop is a good starting point to find out more about the scene as is social centre XM24, which has regular events, such as a weekly organic market every Thursday. If you visit in November, make sure your trip coincides with one of Bologna’s leading cultural events, the Bilbolbul international comic festival, which takes place in venues from museums to homes.

Where to stay A former convent, Hotel Il Convento dei Fiori di Seta, is one of the most unique places to stay, and it’s in the centre of Bologna. The altar has been converted into the reception area, which is still adorned with frescos, marble pillars and religious artwork. The rooms, which have vaulted ceilings and stone walls, have been decorated with modern furniture and fittings, while the spa is open on request should you want a Turkish bath.
Doubles from €99, ilconventodeifioridiseta.com

Brno

Cathedral of St Peter and Paul, Brno

Cathedral of St Peter and Paul. Photograph: Alamy

Why go? Tourism to the Czech Republic often feels concentrated on Prague, so a visit to Brno, the country’s second city, allows you to take full advantage of this – expect a city break free of stag dos! The most important attraction is the baroque Cathedral of St Peter and Paul, while other sights include the spectacular Moravian Karst and caves – a network of more than a thousand underground caves and gorges. Among the city’s many museums and galleries is the Moravian Gallery, where there are collections of visual art and graphic design. Still, as in Prague, the affordable food and drink is a major draw; so knock ‘em back at one of the city’s pubs, such as Výčep Na stojáka, and feast on delicious local cooking at restaurants such as Soul Bistro or Simplé. New bars such as cocktail joint Super Panda Circus and gastropub Lucky Bastard Beerhouse are part of a growing collection of modern urban hangouts.

Where to stay Inside a tall historical house in the city centre, with a first-floor cafe and common kitchen, the Mitte Hostel is a fantastic budget place to stay that can accommodate friends, couples or families in a range of rooms named after great local artists and thinkers.
Doubles from €37, hostelmitte.com

Tallinn

Tallinn, Estonia, city skyline view on a sunny day.

Why go? A medieval city on the Baltic, Tallinn is a quaint destination (bar the stag dos) and, while airlines continue to offer flights there from as little as £90 return, it’s a great choice for a budget weekend break. Pulling together Baltic, Russian and Scandi culture, the old town is a Unesco heritage site where you’ll find the magnificent, onion-domed St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. The city is also home to a large art museum, the Kunstimuuseum, so there’s plenty more to Tallinn than cheap beer – and whole areas to explore beyond the more obvious, boozy, tourist trail. The city’s most interesting district is Kalamaja, a creative neighbourhood where abandoned spaces are being repurposed. A highlight is Telliskivi Creative City, a factory complex now occupied by exhibitions, shops, cafes and performance spaces, such as restaurant and venue F-Hoone. For more of Tallinn’s boho side, dine at nAnO a restaurant and garden cafe in the converted old town home of model agency owner Beatrice Fenice.

Where to stay A small 27 room hotel near the town hall square, Hotel St Petersbourg is a recently refurbished bolthole that should offer the perfect level of comfort and luxury for a romantic break. Its sister hotel, Hotel Schlossle, will reopen after refurbishment this spring.
Doubles from €120, hotelstpetersbourg.com

Graz

Outside view of the Graz Modern Art Museum nicknamed by locals as ‘Friendly Alien’.

The Graz Modern Art museum (Kunsthaus Graz) nicknamed by locals as ‘Friendly Alien’. Photograph: Joe Klamar/AFP

Why go? With a strong cultural heritage, Austria’s second city is a beautiful red-roofed university town in the southern state of Styria. It is home to impressive museums, from the unique Museum of Perception – where you’ll find eye-boggling art pieces – to the striking Kunsthaus Graz, a museum with a space age facade that resembles a giant illuminated alien blob. Another piece of impressive design to check out is the Island in the Mur created by the artist artist Vito Acconci, which has a cafe and performance space. The student population means there is a good nightlife scene from cafe/bar Blendend to bar and venue die Scherbe.

Where to stay Hotel Daniel offers urban chic design on a budget. Right by the main railway station, it has 107 rooms with super minimal, but still pretty cool, fittings. While it also has a fleet of scooters available to hire for those who want to explore the city in classic continental style.
Doubles from €64, hoteldaniel.com

 

This article was written by Will Coldwell from The Guardian and was legally licensed through the NewsCred publisher network.