Following the COVID pandemic, Scotland has seen a surge in international visitors keen to enjoy the country’s rich history, culture and natural beauty. The capital of Edinburgh isn’t just a jumping off point, but a much-loved destination in its own right. On a recent visit, we surveyed the hotel scene and found a splendid showcase of Scottish design, gastronomy and hospitality. (Tip: Summer is peak tourism season in Edinburgh, but there’s something to be said for visiting in the low season. For example, January brings an all-out celebration of national bard Robert Burns with rollicking Burns Suppers on January 25.)
Cross the threshold at The Balmoral, a Rocco Forte Hotel, where you’re greeted by tartan-dressed doormen, and the first thing you’ll notice is the concierge team deftly juggling phone calls and conversations with guests. Overseen by clef d’or head concierge David Musk ([email protected]), the team is five people strong—some have been with the hotel for more than two decades. (“Big Andy” and “Wee Andy” have nearly 30 years’ experience between them.) The most popular request? Guests are looking for private themed city tours, such as the “Royal Edinburgh” experience, which features two famous sites: The Royal Yacht Britannica, the queen’s former vessel featured on “The Crown," and Holyrood Palace, the official royal residence in Edinburgh. Farther afield, the hotel can arrange a private trip along the “Cashmere Tartan and Tweed Trail” in the Scottish Borders, an “Outlander Tour” featuring the lochs and castles made famous by the hit TV show, and a “Golf Experience” to some of the country’s most renowned courses.
The Balmoral has been a city landmark since it opened as a majestic railway hotel next to Waverley Station in 1902. Straddling the Old and New Towns at No. 1 Princes Street, the grande dame is instantly recognizable because of its clock tower—which has always run three minutes fast to ensure the people of Edinburgh get to their trains on time. (The only time that technicians fix the clock is for the famously festive New Year’s Eve celebration of Hogmanay.) Such a fortunate setting offers sweeping city views—from the sixth floor, you can even spy the Firth of Forth sparkling in the distance. A pair of binoculars is strategically placed in the 187 guestrooms for admiring Edinburgh Castle, Arthur’s Seat, and the soaring Scott Monument, dedicated to celebrated author Sir Walter Scott. Homages to Scott are found throughout The Balmoral, which has a deep sense of place in its design and decorative details. Olga Polizzi, director of building & design for Rocco Forte Hotels, was inspired by the Scottish landscape in choosing colors and fabrics.
Booking tips: The 20 individually decorated suites include a number of showstoppers: The J.K. Rowling Suite is where the author wrote “Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows” (there’s an owl door knocker), while the Glamis Suite is a sumptuous apartment evoking the childhood home of The Queen Mother with its glorious antiques and period details. We love room No. 306, a Castle View Suite, because of the knockout panoramas from its corner vantage point. The grandest of them all is the Scone & Crombie Suite—named for the palace of Scone in Perthshire and the historic Crombie Castle in Aberdeenshire—which can be configured as a three-bedroom presidential suite complete with a working fireplace in the living room and a freestanding tub in the marble and mosaic-tiled bathroom. Note: There’s a dedicated room for guest check-in for the Royal Scotsman luxury train. For VIP reservations, luxury travel advisors can reach out to Sales Manager Sarah Reid ([email protected]).
Wellness is a hallmark of Rocco Forte Hotels, and The Balmoral is no exception. Outfitted with brand new Technogym equipment, the fitness center is divided into four spaces including a separate yoga studio. The spa’s wet facilities are extremely popular among guests—think 50-foot swimming pool, Finnish sauna and Turkish steam room. Need help choosing from the spa menu? Reach out to Spa Manager Debbie Leishman ([email protected]). The Forte Face & Body Ritual is a hit; this full-body experience combines a foot soak, body scrub and massage with signature Sicilian oils by Irene Forte. Other treatments use products from the Kingdom Scotland, the country’s first fragrance house. Scents such as “Metamorphic,” inspired by the rock that’s part of Scotland’s complex geology, are crafted using sustainable and ethical ingredients. Nice touch: Guests of the botanical-themed Bowes-Lyon Suite can partake in an exclusive private scent masterclass with Kingdom Scotland’s founder, Imogen Russon-Taylor.
Whisky aficionados, or even newbies keen to learn more about Scotland’s national drink, should reserve a tasting at SCOTCH, the atmospheric whisky bar that’s home to 500 varieties. The kilt-wearing barmen share their expertise while you sip in style on a tweed sofa. For a special occasion, book the “Rare & Ghosted - SCOTCH Whisky Journey,” which features drams of four limited-release whiskies from a closed distillery or a rare bottling. Another Edinburgh institution is afternoon tea at Palm Court. The tea collection (88 varieties, including cloud tea) is assembled with the same care as the leaf-patterned porcelain and head-turning floral centerpiece. There are three seatings from noon to 5:30 p.m., and it’s such a grand affair you can skip dinner.
In June 2022, the much-talked-about debut of Gleneagles Townhouse brought a new hospitality model to Edinburgh. Housed in a lavishly restored bank building dating from the 19th century, the property serves as both a members club and elegant 33-room boutique hotel. This hybrid concept creates an all-day buzz—locals flock to the restaurant, The Spence, while members enjoy a lively rooftop bar, private rooms and a calendar of special events (comedy club, anyone?)
Set to celebrate a century in 2024, the Gleneagles name is synonymous with Scottish countryside style—the 850-acre Perthshire sporting resort is home to three championship golf courses and Scotland’s only Michelin two-starred restaurant. The new urban address is a complementary destination, its guestrooms exuding both comfort and grandeur. (The green-tiled bathrooms alone are sublime. A third of the rooms have free standing tubs—make the request when booking.) The most popular category is the Town Bedroom, and the most spacious is the Master Bedroom overlooking St. Andrew Square (there are two). The staff of 170 at Gleneagles Townhouse is overseen by General Manager Alberto Pelaez Herrera ([email protected]), who previously worked at Finca Cortesin in Spain and The Dorchester in London. The Townhouse has achieved a remarkable occupancy rate of 75 percent in its first year.
An added draw for members and hotel guests is the wellness area called The Strong Rooms, housed in the former bank vault, with top-of-the-line facilities like an infrared sauna, a studio for spin classes, and Scotland’s first cryotherapy room. The fitness program includes 40 complimentary classes, such as Pilates sessions led by former ballerina Lauren Anderson. Yet the property’s pièce de résistance is the The Spence, a staggering glass-domed space with ornate sculpted moldings in the former bank hall. Here chef Jonny Wright shows off Scotland’s natural bounty with dazzling dishes like the West Coast Crab Crumpet and Pan-Seared Isle of Mull Scallop served with seaweed, miso and chili butter. The dessert trolley is brimming with treats, but to cap off your meal, order the whisky and bitter chocolate mousse served with almond ice cream.
Another not-to-miss dining experience is Grazing by Mark Greenaway at the Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh – The Caledonian. Launched in summer 2023, the 100-Mile Menu is a celebration of locally sourced seasonal ingredients in four courses paired with cocktails. Presented with a sprig of lavender, the menu proudly lists provenance: cream (21 miles), lamb (45 miles), peas and broad beans (50 miles). The highlight is the revisited Shepherd’s Pie, with the Perthshire lamb loin artfully plated next to a puree-stuffed grilled onion. The cocktails are as fastidiously prepared as the food; for example, the Fresh Martini is fashioned with Nc’nean Wild Botanical Spirit and a pea shoot to match the peas adorning the Arbroath Smokie Tart.
The Caledonian was born in 1903 as a railway hotel adjoining the Princes Street station, which handled 250 trains a day in the 1800s. (The Caledonian Railway Company was a rival to North British Railway Company, which opened The Balmoral a year earlier.) A monumental edifice made of red sandstone, the hotel has only closed its doors once in its history—during COVID. Stories have gone down as legend: Roy Rogers took his horse Trigger up the grand staircase, Sean Connery celebrated his knighthood in the former American Bar, Grace Kelly charmed the staff to such an extent an assistant manager wrote they all fell “perhaps just a little bit in love” with her.
Acquired by Hilton in 2000, The Caledonian became a Waldorf Astoria hotel in 2012, with the luxury brand’s signatures, Peacock Alley and the Waldorf Astoria Spa. Many of the 231 guestrooms have views of Edinburgh Castle; the suites are named for famous personalities like Robert Louis Stevenson.
There’s also a suite on the fifth floor dedicated to Billy Garioch, a former concierge who worked at the hotel for 50 years. Other facilities include the 300-person ballroom and award-winning restaurant Dean Banks at The Pompadour. For VIPs, contact Director of Sales Stefan Groenwald ([email protected]).
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