Is there a place to find peace and quiet, to unplug, in an ancient and secluded monastery in central Italy? Why, yes, weary traveler. That special spot is Vocabolo Moscatelli near Umbertide in Umbria. Come hither—and you may bring your dog.
Frederik Kubierschky ([email protected]) and Catharina Lütjens ([email protected]) met working in fine hotels. Their dream to manage their own property, to make it different from the rest, has been realized at Vocabolo Moscatelli, which opened in 2022. The property is a member of Design Hotels.
At this 12th-century monastery re-fashioned into 12 rooms, including six suites, our visit began with cappuccino and chocolate delights in the hotel’s intimate Bar Matite. The couple told the story of the monks from Gubbio, who eventually closed the monastery and left the building empty. Frederiko and Catharina purchased it with partner Enrico Tidona at auction in 2019 and spent the next 18 months renovating. Replacing the tower bell required sourcing from an ancient Italian company; in fact, almost everything within and without the property was created or provided by nearby Italian artisans and designers.
The front gardens are as they might have been five centuries ago, with grasses and wild flowers. Other green spaces are planted with rosemary, lavender and cypress. The rear gardens, which edge a ripening cornfield, include cutting beds, herbs and fresh vegetables for the kitchen. A large grassy area is dotted with endangered ancient fruit tree species sourced by arboreal archeologist Isabella Dalla Ragione, whose late father discovered heritage trees in noble palaces, abandoned gardens, convents and abbeys.
This climate-conscious property uses hemp bed linens for coolness and makes an effort to source food products locally as well as use produce from their own gardens. In an effort to encourage guests to unplug, the rooms have no televisions or house phones, though they are free to use apps on their own devices using Vocabolo Moscatelli’s high-speed Internet system. There is air conditioning for hot summer days and underfloor heating for chilly ones. A travertine pool is ready for laps or lounging.
Historic properties never call for cookie-cutter room layouts and this one is no different. The rooms range in size from 270 square feet to more than 800 square feet.
Terrace Suite 1 calls to mind the private rooms of a Renaissance duchess. There is a giant fireplace, velvet-covered sofas, bookshelves, beamed ceiling and mullioned windows. Contemporary art and furniture styles bring the space into the 21st century. The bedroom is spacious and comfortable, adjacent to a large bathroom and walk-in closet. (All bathroom tiles are made by hand by nearby Cotto Etrusco). What makes this suite divertente (a fun diversion) is the large terrace, overlooking the small piazza on ground level. Open arches can be closed with privacy drapes, which means guests may enjoy the enormous egg-shaped bathtub in open air.
The Spa Suite 10 has its own special touches, including a private sauna off the tiled bathroom, an outdoor Jacuzzi and a new round glass conservatory with wood burning stove, where spa suite guests may sit and enjoy the atmosphere in any weather. As do the others, this suite has a direct private entrance and its own small garden.
Room 11 is the entry level Garden Deluxe Room and, like the others, has locally handmade tiles and fine amenities. Suite 12, is a suite popular with bridal couples and honeymooners. Located up a flight of stone stairs, it has a locally designed king bed, separate shower and WC, walk in closet, double sinks, and a private garden. There is a large egg-shaped bathtub in the bedroom, which is lined with a double row of tiny glass panes. There is a separate living room with a wall of windows.
Guests from around Europe and North America who enjoy traveling with their dogs seek pet-friendly properties such as Vocabolo Moscatelli. (Human guests must be over 14 years old). During our visit, we saw five visitors with dogs (leashed, of course), who joined Frederik and Catharina’s Lagotto Romagnolo, Wilma, on rambles through the garden.
For those wishing to hold weddings or other ceremonies, cocktails or small meetings or conference, there is the deconsecrated chapel on the property, where the centuries-old facade opens to an airy contemporary space that holds up to 60 guests. It’s possible to buy out the entire hotel for a special event.
Chef Lorenzo Cantoni creates fresh-cooked meals from the produce in the garden, with an interesting take on the menu. The broad selection of vegetables is considered the main meal, with a choice of grilled meats offered as side dishes. Guests staying for several days will find the opportunity for family-style dining on pizza night and traditional Italian cuisine on another evening. Breakfast hours are unlimited, a boon for late sleepers, who are welcome to wander to the terrace or dining room at their convenience.
Most guests arrive to this secluded spot by personal car. In autumn 2024, Vocabolo began offering tours of Umbria for those who wish a guided experience. The property closes between mid-January and mid-April.
Frederik’s favorite time of the day is when he lights the firepit and invites guests (and their dogs, if they wish) to join him for an after dinner nightcap and conversation around the fire. It is the ultimate unplugged moment of the day.
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