Avana Retreat is a luxury hideaway that will captivate nature lovers, culture adventurers and travelers seeking respite from Vietnam’s lively cities and upscale beach destinations. The 36 thatched suites, bungalows and pool villas, framed by cloud-caressed paddy field terraces, are sparingly scattered across tropical forest hillsides at more than 1,300 feet above sea level. This is a true sanctuary of serenity and beauty, and worth every minute of the four-hour drive from Hanoi’s international airport into the northern mountainous Mai Chau region, which is still relatively untouched by tourism.
When we arrived it was dark, so we saw none of the surrounding area from the electric buggy that brought us up lantern-lit narrow pathways—a conscious choice to minimize the impact on the lush vegetation—to Room No. 101, one of the 22 entry-level Bauhania Suites. The next morning from our large balcony, when we looked out across the verdant Mai Chau valley, we were totally blown away.
As wispy clouds drifted over the greenest of hills and sculpted rice terraces, which are cultivated by the local Hmong people, we looked down on the Cloud Pool, caught glimpses of the thatched roofs on the higher levels of the 37-acre property and could hear a waterfall, a babbling stream, birdsong and gentle rustling sounds that raised a thousand questions about the wildlife living in the jungle. We later learned from General Manager James Thai ([email protected]; +84-218-3819-868) that as well as the 22 Bauhania Suites there are six larger Ferns Grand Mountain Suites, five Lantana Bungalows with two bedrooms, and three Senna Hilltop Pool Villas—one with one bedroom and two with two bedrooms.
Ranging in size from 1,054 to 2,465 square feet, and inspired by traditional local Hmong, Thai and Muong village stilt houses, the rooms have rammed-earth walls, bamboo window frames and high, woven rattan ceilings. Our airy, open-plan suite had a day area with locally crafted wooden furnishings, a comfortable couch, low table and easy chair, and blended into the bedroom, which had an extremely comfortable bed and a window nook with a writing desk.
The minibars are complimentary (the wines and Heidsieck champagne had price tags) and the bathrooms have both shower stalls and bathtubs. There is night lighting under the couch, the bed and in the bathroom, and we particularly liked the light switch pad with glowing red dots for each light that is turned on, this way you don’t have to flick them all to find the one you are looking for. All rooms have a couch that can become an extra bed.
Top tip: The one-bedroom Senna Hilltop Pool Villa, No. 402, should be your choice for honeymooners and couples seeking total seclusion. Perched atop a stack of terraced paddy fields, it has a large terrace with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and a two-tier infinity pool, which is a mini version of the main Cloud Pool. For families, we suggest No. 403, one of the two-bedroom Senna Pool Villas and the highest on the estate; it also has an infinity pool and can sleep up to eight in the king and twin bedrooms and on extra beds.
GM James told us his Avana team has planted over 10,000 trees on the estate, which has a free-range chicken farm and an organic garden where they grow herbs and vegetables for the Green Chilli Restaurant. The dozens of distinctive traditional lanterns hanging from the restaurant’s ceiling create a wonderfully soft and relaxing ambiance, unlike so many restaurants today, which favor harsh spot lighting. We ordered a Local Duck Set—there was also the choice of chicken, pork, goat, carp, catfish or sturgeon—and were brought a beautifully plated series of variations on the main ingredient. The combinations were delicious, each bite telling a story.
Chef Luong Bao Nam told us that Hanoi’s famous Pho Bao beef noodle soup is one of the most popular choices, even for breakfast. He also said guests like his grilled meats, burgers, pasta dishes, pizzas and ethnic hotpots, and that he forages for jungle herbs and plants, which he uses in his dishes. Many guests, he added, use the in-room iPad to order private dining in their villa, and to reserve the waterfall and the hidden spring lagoon (which is also a popular spot for swimming) for romantic dinners, weddings and private parties.
The heated Cloud Pool is beautiful, with the sinuous forms of paddy fields, and is three-layered with the deepest water at the bottom. Perched over the valley, it also has a view of the Pung Waterfall, which is “the heart of the retreat,” says Avana Retreat’s owner, Vu Huy. One solitary poolside tree stands, proud as a sentinel, as guests gather on the pool deck from 3 to 6 p.m. for the Happy Hour to enjoy cocktails and finger food.
Entering the Orchid Spa you are welcomed by a rush of Koi fish in the central pond, and walk up a winding wooden pathway through the jungle greenery to one of the eight treatment rooms. The spa manager ([email protected]) suggested the Avana Signature Soothing treatment and we were lulled by the regular rhythm of the massage, and the murmuring stream that runs under and around the spa and was, we decided, the most beautiful of all spa music. Upstream on the walkway there are also a small gym and the yoga pavilion.
What else can you do in an earth-kind mountain retreat? At Avana the nature and ethnic-based activities are many and varied. From trekking and walks, to yoga and meditation classes, and to batik, rattan weaving and candle-making workshops, they also include jeep excursions, kayaking and cooking lessons. There are also many activities that will delight children who can connect with the wildlife in the Bamboo Forest, collect eggs on the cage-free farm, feed the ducks in the pond beside the restaurant, learn about local traditions in the Stilt House Museum, and dabble with local crafts in the Kids Club.
James told us the rainy season is from June to September, and many guests prefer it to the hotter months; he thinks March is the best month because the fields and hills are in bloom. He also said that 90 percent of the workforce are from local villages, and we found them utterly charming one and all, from the management, restaurant and spa teams to the gardeners and maintenance staff we met around the property.
COO Hong Duc ([email protected]) said luxury travel advisors should contact him or Front Office Assistant Manager Ms Quy ([email protected]) with any kind of request. Duc organized a Jeep Adventure for us, sending us off in a 1975 former U.S.-army vehicle, which can take three passengers. We spent an exhilarating afternoon discovering local villages, driving on dirt roads across challenging mountain terrain and paddy fields, and happily splashing through mountain streams. Another day Duc arranged for us to join a batik class with a lady from a local Hmong village, and to take a cooking class with Chef Luong, who taught us the art of cutting the carrot roses that beautify so many of his dishes.
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