Walk to eight Byzantine UNESCO World Heritage sites built between the 5th and 6th centuries, read a poem at Dante’s grave, and experience full immersion in Byron’s world at a new museum dedicated to the poet. Ravenna, in Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, is a town with low-impact touring and high-impact sites. And, to make things even better, it’s a foodie haven.
Set in the historic center, the Palazzo Bezzi Ravenna was originally built before the 17th century and was renovated around 1788 as a home for a noble family. It opened as a hotel in 2013. With 32 recently updated rooms (including five junior suites), a rooftop terrace, small private spa, and enclosed garden, the property is rated four-star superior, though some guest reviews say it’s closer to five stars. (Italian hotel ratings include national regulations, as well as regional ones, which respond to local architecture and history).
In 2025, the Palazzo (+39-054-436-926) will add another eight junior suites in an adjacent vintage building, according to Manager Luca Pulzoni ([email protected]).
In contrast to the villa’s historic architecture, the rooms are modern and minimalist, using fine fabrics to create a high-end sensibility. Like in other historic properties, most rooms are different, depending upon the building’s layout. The exceptions are Rooms 501 and 502, similar executive level view rooms. Both bathrooms have separate tubs and showers.
Junior Suite 407 is laid out so that the bedroom and/or living area can be closed off. There is a matrimoniale bed (halfway between queen and king) in the bedroom and a sleeper sofa in the living area. The bathroom is spacious with a combination shower/bathtub. The suite’s windows overlook the narrow street.
In contrast, Junior Suite 308 sleeps three, with a matrimoniale bed and single sleeper in an open floor plan. There is an electronic skylight, walk-in closet and garden view. Junior Suite 207 is furnished with a king bed, which may be separated into twins, and a combination shower/bathtub. Superior room 304 has a round bed and a great view of Ravenna’s rooftops.
There are parquet floors throughout the property. All rooms are non-smoking; children and pets are welcome. Historic preservation rules require that the hotel retain its staircases, but the palazzo will provide ramps for less mobile guests.
According to Pulzoni, there are plans to enlarge the spa. At the moment, it’s small and private, offering a range of treatments, including massages (for singles or couples), a hammam and a sauna.
We like the intimate restaurant/breakfast area overlooking the private garden, which may be used by guests in warm weather.
Why go to Ravenna? The town was once the capital of the Western Roman Empire, as well as Byzantine Italy. There are some of the most spectacular 6th-century mosaics in the world within the eight UNESCO World Heritage sites, most of which are just a few minutes’ walk from Palazzo Bezzi. An Italian itinerary could include Florence, Venice or Bologna, traveling by train or car.
The town is also a literary draw. Italian poet Dante is buried here and most days about 6 p.m., an admirer will read a poem in front of his tomb. Some intrepid Dante lovers walk from Ravenna to Florence in honor of the poet.
A few hundred years later, Lord Byron wrote some of his most respected work here. In late 2024, the Palazzo Guiccioli, where the poet spent two years, opened as a museum dedicated to Byron and to the Risorgimento. The cutting-edge multimedia technology is worth a visit to the museum, as is the Taverna Byron ristorante in the complex (tavernabyron54.com).
Emilia-Romagna is known as the region with the best food in Italy. Ravenna specializes in both regional specialties and fresh seafood. The Mercato Coperto (open market) is a tantalizing spot to shop for perfectly hand-formed pasta or to stop for lunch surrounded by the foods and wines Ravenna is famous for. Another favorite is Ca’ de’ Ven Ravenna, an enoteca and ristorante offering traditional goodies and sublime regional wines (cadeven.it).
After viewing the complex Byzantine mosaics at the UNESCO sites, it’s possible to have a mosaic lesson in English at Koko Mosaico, where students can create a small piece to take home.
The month-long Ravenna Festival, held at the 19th-century Dante Alighieri Theatre in summer, with some performances in the countryside, draws music, opera and dance lovers from around the world. Book early to secure tickets and hotel stays.
The town of Classe, on the Adriatic sea, six miles from the main city, is where Byron loved to wander in the pine woods. It is the site of the magnificent mosaics in the basilica of Sant’Apollinare. An old sugar factory has been turned into a new archeological museum, Classis Ravenna Museo, which traces the complex history of the area in multimedia exhibits. For lunch, there is Ristorante Albergo S. Apollinaire (Via Classense 12), where the local seafood is memorable. Since the area in and around Ravenna is flat, this day out is a favorite of bicyclers.
Rita Biserni ([email protected]) is an English-speaking guide, whose knowledge of the historic sites here is exceptional. Ravenna Incoming handles groups and incoming service.
We tend to agree with the famous Italian classicist, Arnaldo Momiglano, who said, “When I want to understand Italian history, I catch a train and I go to Ravenna.”
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