Every property has its own ambiance—in Puglia, they run the gamut from glossy and sophisticated to laid back, from grand masseria to humble trullo. At the 17th-century Masseria Calderisi, the operative word is gentile in Italian, translated as “warm courtesy.” Located between Savelletri and Fasano, its position at the top of the “heel of the boot” makes it easy to arrive by car or plane.
General Manager Elio Zazzera and his team, all locals, exude the pleasure that comes from doing what they enjoy: Helping guests make memories. As the story goes, the whole group previously worked at a very posh property where things were less than authentically Pugliese. When an investor offered them the chance to create a new masseria boutique hotel, one where they could offer guests traditional Pugliese hospitality, they leapt at the chance. From GM to F&B, sales, chef and housekeeping, they all joined the new venture together. Good to know: The genial Elio can be contacted at [email protected] for special requests.
The whitewashed masseria was developed from an old working farm (masseria means “farm” in Pugliese dialect). There are 24 rooms, including five in the old stables, three in the tower building, six garden suites and nine in the courtyard. In addition, there is Il Fortino, a secluded independent villa, separate from the main buildings. Twenty-four acres of ancient olive and fruit trees surround the buildings and swimming pool.
The hotel is a few minutes inland from the beach; for now, there is an arrangement with a private beach club and a hotel shuttle for guests wishing to sun and swim. The Calderisi plans to build its own beach stabilemento in the near future.
The square tower, which centers the main courtyard, was built in 1658 and overlooks olive groves that stretch to the sea in the distance. There are two rooms up a flight of stairs, including The Tower Suite, No. 23 (600 square feet), which has a separate living room and bedroom, large bathroom, fireplace and vaulted stone ceilings. There is a second suite, Tower 1658, No. 22, which may be booked separately; though smaller (235 square feet), it offers a sea view. Adjacent to these rooms is an expansive sitting room and a large rooftop terrace. By taking both suites, the entire floor, including a salone and rooftop, is available for the private use of the Tower guests. Beverage and food service is available through room service. The tower could be a great choice for a family or group of friends traveling together, as well as for a small event, such as an anniversary or christening.
Note: Masseria Calderisi, which has been open just about a year, hosted close to 20 weddings by the end of 2022 and has booked more for 2023. According to staff, the property requires a minimum of about 60 guests to book weddings. There is a charming consecrated chapel on site for religious ceremonies, as well as the option to have a civil ceremony outside on the piazza or in the olive grove. Many American couples have the legal ceremony in the States and a romantic re-enactment in Italy.
Il Fortino, a small villa completely separate from the main hotel, has a large living room with a fireplace and a separate bedroom with en-suite bathroom, totaling about 600 square feet. A private walled garden includes a private pool and outdoor shower, surrounded by citrus trees and lush plantings.
The remaining rooms at Masseria Calderisi are on the ground level. L’Uliveto (460 square feet) is a suite in the main tower building, with a private terrace overlooking the citrus grove. There is a separate bedroom and a sitting room with fireplace.
The five Stable suites (540 square feet) each have a living room with a working fireplace, a bedroom and a large bathroom. Every suite has a small, enclosed garden at each entry and a small private garden opening from the master bedroom, where guests may have breakfast or relax. No. 6 has a limestone terrace, a living room with a fireplace and vaulted ceiling, a tiled walk-in shower and private terrace with grassy local plants around the edge.
On the other side of the property, facing olive groves and open fields, are the six Garden suites (505 square feet) with working fireplaces, bathtubs and showers. The walled gardens are large and private, which can appeal to guests traveling with children or pets. No. 17 has a grassy garden and stone terrace, large bathtub and a fireplace in the bedroom / sitting room.
Facing the inside of the courtyard are the nine Cortiletto rooms. They are spacious double rooms (350 square feet) with small private gardens. No. 15 is on a quiet corner, with a king bed, walk-in closet and large bathroom.
Executive Chef Pietro Sgaramella presides over La Corte ristorante, which focuses on local cuisine. A native of Puglia, Chef Pietro offers very entertaining cooking classes, including a lesson on how to make his beloved melanzana parmigiana (eggplant parmesan), and hosts interactive pizza-making in the Calderisi’s outdoor pizza kitchen.
For foodies, Puglia has its own special attractions. It is the largest producing region of olive oil in Italy, pressing millions of liters per year. The long coastline provides seafood, including sea urchins, swordfish, octopus, mussels, scallops, squid, clams and more. There is a wide variety of cheeses in Puglia; DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) cheeses exclusive to Puglia are canestrato Pugliese and caciocavallo Podolico. Orecchiette, the traditional Pugliese pasta shaped little ears, comes in the traditional cream color or a grano arso (burned grain), which dates back to when the poor people gleaned grains of wheat left over from recent harvests and toasted by the sun. Chef Pietro offers many of these specialties at La Corte and will consult with guests about local agriturismos, restaurants in the area, special foods and local wines.
The masseria has a large swimming pool and outdoor terrace for events. There is also a cozy spa, where guests may book facials, massages, scrubs and more using ingredients from the Calderisi gardens: Olive oil, honey, herbs and lemon. Yoga classes are available in the olive groves or terraces; guests may use the small gym or plan a run or hike around the property.
Staff will assist guests with booking a private boat tour with lunch, or an evening cruise along the coast (tip: there is nothing like jumping from a boat into the blue Adriatic on a hot summer day). The masseria provides bicycles for rides through the ancient olive groves, along country lanes or to nearby villages.
Because of its location, Masseria Calderisi is a good stopping-off point on the way to Lecce, the “Florence of the South,” or Matera, which was the European “Capital of Culture” in 2019. It’s a short drive to Alberobello, Castel del Monte, Ostuni, and wineries and olive oil producers. The ceramics town of Grottaglie is nearby, where guests may shop for pieces similar to those used in décor at the hotel. Porto di Salvelletri is a charming small town minutes away from the Calderisi by car; Monopoli and Polignano a Mare are just up the coast.
Unlike some other parts of Italy, rural Puglia is not perfectly manicured. It is rustic and sometimes a bit rough, but around the bend of a grassy driveway or puddled lane there can be a wonderful surprise: A spectacular grove of ancient olive trees surrounding a secluded whitewashed retreat or a beach paradise overlooking the sea. A hint for travelers: Savor the unexpected.
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